Cheshire Pest Control

Archive for April, 2009

Fleas In Manchester, Lancashire & Cheshire

Common Name	Scientific Name
Cat Flea	Ctenocephalides felis (Bouche)
Dog Flea	Ctenocephalides canis (Curtis)
Northern Rat Flea	Nosopsyllus fasciatus (Bosc)
Oriental Rat Flea	Xenopsylla cheopis (Rothschild)
Rabbit Flea	Cediopsylla simplex (Baker)

Fleas are very important pests. It is estimated pet owners alone spend over £1 billion each year controlling fleas.

Adult fleas are not only a nuisance to humans and their pets, but can cause medical problems including flea allergy dermatitis (FAD), tapeworms, secondary skin irritations and, in extreme cases, anaemia. Although bites are rarely felt, it is the resulting irritation caused by the flea salivary secretions that varies among individuals. Some may witness a severe reaction (general rash or inflammation) resulting in secondary infections caused by scratching the irritated skin area. Others may show no reaction or irritation acquired after repeated bites over several weeks or months. Most bites usually found on the ankles and legs may cause pain lasting a few minutes, hours or days depending on one’s sensitivity. The typical reaction to the bite is the formation of a small, hard, red, slightly-raised (swollen) itching spot. There is a single puncture point in the centre of each spot.  Mosquitoes, bees, wasps and bedbugs cause a large swelling or welt). Also, fleas may transmit bubonic plague from rodent to rodent and from rodent to humans in countries where it is endemic. Oriental rat fleas can transmit murine typhus (endemic typhus) fever among rats and from rats to humans. Tapeworms normally infest dogs and cats but may appear in children if parts of infested fleas are accidentally consumed.

Identification

Adult fleas are about 1/16 to 1/8-inch long, dark reddish-brown, wingless, hard-bodied (difficult to crush between fingers), have three pairs of legs (hind legs enlarged enabling jumping) and are flattened vertically or side to side, allowing easy movement between the hair, fur or feathers of the host. Fleas are excellent jumpers, leaping vertically up to seven inches and horizontally thirteen inches. (An equivalent hop for a human would be 250 feet vertically and 450 feet horizontally.) They have piercing-sucking mouthparts and spines on the body projecting backward. Eggs are smooth, oval and white. Larvae are 1/4-inch long, slender, straw-coloured, brown headed, wormlike, bristly-haired creatures (13 body segments), that are legless, have chewing mouthparts, are active, and avoid light. Pupae are enclosed in silken cocoons covered with particles of debris.

 

 

Life Cycle and Habits

 

Fleas pass through a complete life cycle consisting of egg, larva, pupa and adult. A typical flea population consists of 50 percent eggs, 35 percent larvae, 10 percent pupae and 5 percent adults. Completion of the life cycle from egg to adult varies from two weeks to eight months depending on the temperature, humidity, food, and species. Normally after a blood meal, the female flea lays about 15 to 20 eggs per day up to 600 in a lifetime usually on the host (dogs, cats, rats, rabbits, mice, squirrels, foxes, chickens, humans, etc.). Eggs loosely laid in the hair coat, drop out anywhere especially where the host rests, sleeps or nests (rugs, carpets, upholstered furniture, cat or dog boxes, kennels, sand boxes, etc.). Eggs hatch in two days to two weeks into larvae found indoors in floor cracks & crevices, along floorboards, under rug edges and in furniture or beds. Outdoor development occurs in sandy gravel soils (moist sandboxes, dirt, under shrubs, etc.) where the pet may rest or sleep. Sand and gravel are very suitable for larval development which is the reason fleas are erroneously called “sand fleas.”

Larvae are blind, avoid light, pass through three larval instars or moults and take a week to several months to develop. Their food consists of digested blood from adult flea faeces, dead skin, hair, feathers, and other organic debris. (Larvae do not suck blood.) Pupae mature to adulthood within a silken cocoon woven by the larva to which pet hair, carpet fibre, dust, grass cuttings, and other debris adheres. In about five to fourteen days, adult fleas emerge or may remain resting in the cocoon until the detection of vibration (pet and people movement), pressure (host animal lying down on them), heat, noise, or carbon dioxide (meaning a potential blood source is near). Most fleas overwinter in the larval or pupal stage with survival and growth best during warm, moist winters and spring.

Adult fleas cannot survive or lay eggs without a blood meal, but may live from two months to one year without feeding. There is often a desperate need for flea control after a family has returned from a long holiday. The house has been empty with no cat or dog around for fleas to feed on. When the family and pets are gone, flea eggs hatch and larvae pupate. The adult fleas fully developed inside the pupal cocoon remains in a kind of “limbo” for a long time until a blood source is near. The family returning from holiday is immediately attacked by waiting hungry hordes of fleas. (In just 30 days, 10 female fleas under ideal conditions can multiply to over a quarter million different life stages.)

Newly emerged adult fleas live only about one week if a blood meal is not obtained. However, completely developed adult fleas can live for several months without eating, so long as they do not emerge from their puparia. Optimum temperatures for the flea’s life cycle are 70°F to 85°F and optimum humidity is 70 percent. The cat flea is the most common flea which feeds on a wide range of hosts.

Medication – Relief from itching can be obtained by applying vaseline, menthol, camphor, calamine lotion or ice. Highly sensitive persons should consult their physician for advice.

Repellents – Apply on the outer clothing and to exposed skin. Do not use under clothing. N,N-Diethyl-meta-toluamide (DEET) is very effective, but should not be used carelessly as severe allergies can develop. Do not apply repellents over cuts, wounds, irritated skin, around eyes or mouth or to the hands of young children.

Control Measures

Flea control is best achieved with a simultaneous, co-ordinated effort involving strict sanitation, pet treatment and premise treatment (both indoors & outdoors).

Inspection – Before treatment, discuss the pet’s habits with family members to determine where resting and sleeping occurs most frequently. Flea activity “hot spots” can be detected by placing white socks over shoes and walking through the residence into suspected areas. Research has demonstrated that these areas will contain the highest amount of eggs, larvae and pupae even after vacuuming. Hot spots for homes with dogs are usually areas where the pet goes in and out of the house, eats, sleeps and spends time with the family at the base of furniture. For cats, check the tops of refrigerators, cabinets, bookcases and higher locations.

One can monitor flea populations by placing a shallow pan of water with a little dish detergent (acts as a wetting agent which breaks water surface tension) on the floor. Position a gooseneck lamp with the light on about five to six inches above the liquid surface. Adult fleas will leap toward the light at night, fall into the detergent solution and drown.

Sanitation – Before vacuuming, collect all items (toys, shoes, clothes, etc.) off the floor, under beds, furniture, in cupboards, etc., to ensure best access for treatment. Also cover fish tanks, remove birdcages, pet food and water dishes and wash or dry clean any pet bedding. Vacuuming carpet with a beater-bar type vacuum where the pet rests and sleeps will help control flea larvae by removing eggs and dried blood faeces (larval food) plus opening up the carpet’s nap for more effective insecticide treatment. Vacuuming must be performed on a regular basis every other day to be effective. Flea larvae do not move far from the site of hatching when there is adequate food (dried blood faeces from adults). Research indicates larvae spend 83 percent of the time deep in the carpet at the base of fibres frequently becoming entwined within the carpet. At pupation, the larva move up the carpet fibre spinning a camouflaging cocoon around itself. Vacuum especially where lint and pet hairs accumulate along floorboards, around carpet edges, on ventilators, around heat registers, in floor cracks, and under and in furniture where the pet sleeps.

After vacuuming, place the vacuum bag in a large plastic rubbish bag and discard in an outdoor dustbin. If the cleaner uses a liquid water medium in a plastic pan (rather than a dust bag) discard dirty water far away from the house.

Treatment  Treatment is best left to a professional pest control company. It is often necessary to complete 2 treatments to eradicate the infestation and it is essential that any pets on the premises are treated by a vet.

 

Prevention – Trim lawns and weeds to create a drier, less-ideal environment for flea larvae. Avoid piles of sand and gravel around the home for long periods of time. Fence gardens to prevent dogs from roaming freely in heavily infested areas or contacting other infested animals. Discourage nesting or roosting of rodents and birds on or near the premises. Screen or seal vents, chimneys, crevices, etc. where rats, mice, squirrels, may use to enter crawlspaces and buildings. Wash or destroy pet bedding, regularly groom pets and vacuum frequently to remove up to 95 percent of the flea eggs, some larvae and adults. Only about 20 percent of the larvae might be removed when vacuuming since they wrap themselves around the bottom strands of carpeting.

Pets – There are many formulations as shampoos, aerosols, dips, sprays, dusts (powders), collars, dab-ons, spot-ons and monthly tablet or oral liquid treatments. Usually, the most effective pet treatments are available through licensed veterinarians.

 

That concludes this article entitled Fleas In Manchester, Lancashire & Cheshire

Get Rid Of Ants Permanently

Get Rid Of Ants Permanently – Only the unfortunates who have suffered it will know the true terror of winged ants in their homes.
Having an infestation of normal wingless ants is bad enough but when they go through their annual mating  cycle the situation can become insufferable.
Ants often start colonies under the floors and in the wall cavities of our homes and these colonies will continue for many years if left to their own devices  getting progressively more intolerable each year.
Our dwellings are warm and dry and make the ideal places for a thriving ant colony; even ‘solid’ concrete floor is not a problem to an ant.
Our central heating systems maintains their metabolism even in the colder months and my earliest ant call-out was on my birthday, in early January!
Ants love a sandy soil and there are many towns in Lancashire, Cheshire and Manchester which tend to produce more ant problems than others, Southport, Blackpool, Bolton, Sale & Altrincham come to mind as hot ant towns.
Unfortunately it is during their mating period that they are most troublesome. Here in Lancashire, Cheshire and Manchester this tends to be fairlyoften  around the third or fourth week in July.
Ants mate in-flight and around mid-summer the colony produces winged immature Queens and winged males which in  a more natural environment would fly off and mate whilst airborne. Many thousands of these winged ants are produced per colony and nests tend to time  their release so that they mate with ants produced by other colonies.
Invariably this process starts after two or three days of warm, dry weather  and will usually go on for about a week although less frequent releases will continue throughout most of June, July & August.
Unfortunately when the nest is hidden beneath the floor of the property the results can be catastrophic, literally thousands of flying ants are disgorged into the lower rooms, collecting on windows as they head for the light.
This can be extremely distressing for some people leading to extreme emotional trauma to the degree that people learn to fear the summer months and have actually sold their homes to escape the invasion of ants which they know comes each year.
The very wet summers of 07 & 08 has meant that ant call-outs were down on previous years but ants seem to have a way of catching up and 2009 looks set to be a very troublesome year.
Most people who have this problem try DIY solutions with powders from hardware shops etc but usually these efforts are fruitless as they are not addressing the heart of the problem which is the colony itself, hidden away in the cavity wall or sub-floor area.
Fortunately for many people an answer is at hand.
At Harrier Pest Control (subject to site conditions) we are able to solve this problem and give an extendable three year guarantee.
The process which is done mainly from the exterior of the property, is perfectly safe for pets and children and produces no smell, involves drilling small holes into the cavity walls of the property, not unlike a damp-course injection and blowing an pesticidal powder into the cavity walls under pressure.
This forms an impenetrable barrier across which the ants cannot go and along with a precautionary internal spray treatment (if appropriate) will gradually bring the situation under control.
The holes, which are only 8mm in diameter remain open so it is a simply matter of topping up the cavities every three years to extend the effectiveness of the guarantee in three year terms.
This process is best carried out in the early spring however it can be done at any time of year.
As a limited time offer before our busy period starts  we are offering 25% off the standard cost until April 30 2009. Whilst we normally cover the whole of Lancashire, Cheshire and Greater Manchester, we are willing to travel further afield but this will increase the cost.
For a discussion or to arrange an site visit contact Harrier Pest Prevention on Free Phone 0800 019 8382 or

http://harrierpestprevention.com